In this video, I'll show you how to add a bigger antenna to your vehicle's keyless entry system to extend the range.
You'll need the normal soldering tools, as well as a long piece of wire. I used a 14g electrical wire, but even speaker wire would work.
Optionally, a car trim pry tool would be helpful, which can be purchased here on eBay.
Install new TPMS sensors in your tires by yourself!
As promised, here is my follow-up video where I show you how to install new TPMS sensors in a tire that is already mounted on a rim. Do this if you are replacing an existing TPMS sensor, or if you are adding a sensor where you had a regular rubber valve before.
I am installing Autel MX Sensors in my winter tires. In my previous post, I showed you how to program these sensors. If you missed that, read it here: https://www.gabeshacks.com/2016/10/how-to-clone-and-program-new-tpms.html
Here's a tip I learned later: Drive a nail through the two boards into the small piece so they don't slip.
I am installing Autel MX Sensors in my winter tires. In my previous post, I showed you how to program these sensors. If you missed that, read it here: https://www.gabeshacks.com/2016/10/how-to-clone-and-program-new-tpms.html
Here's a tip I learned later: Drive a nail through the two boards into the small piece so they don't slip.
How to clone and program new TPMS sensors with Autel MX Sensors & MaxiTPMS PAD
Here I show you how you can buy TPMS sensors on the cheap and clone your existing ones to avoid having to visit your dealer to reprogram your vehicle. Use this if you are replacing a broken TPMS sensor, or if you want to install new ones, especially in winter tires, for example.
I'm doing this for my 2009 Honda Odyssey EX-L, but the principles apply to any supported vehicle.
Since I posted this video, Autel has released a new sensor that works on both 315MHz and 433MHz called the "1-Sensor", so you don't need to worry about which frequency your vehicle works on. To figure out if these sensors will work with your vehicle, go to this page, click on "Downloads" and download the document called "TS508_V6.19_FunctionList_" that ends with the two-letter code for the global market you are in ("US" for North America): https://www.maxitpms.com/tpmscms/product2/794.jhtml That spreadsheet will also tell you whether your vehicle automatically learns new TPMS sensors. If it says "A", then you do not need programmable sensors at all. Just buy any compatible sensor that works on the right frequency for your vehicle. You can order the programmable MX sensors online: eBay (shipped from China) Amazon.com (shipped from US) And the programmer: Autel MaxiTPMS PAD (eBay - from China)
Note: All links are affiliate links, meaning that when you use these links, eBay will give me a percentage of anything you spend, at no cost to you. This helps me justify to my wife spending time on these videos. Thank you! :)
And here's the video:
I'm doing this for my 2009 Honda Odyssey EX-L, but the principles apply to any supported vehicle.
Since I posted this video, Autel has released a new sensor that works on both 315MHz and 433MHz called the "1-Sensor", so you don't need to worry about which frequency your vehicle works on. To figure out if these sensors will work with your vehicle, go to this page, click on "Downloads" and download the document called "TS508_V6.19_FunctionList_" that ends with the two-letter code for the global market you are in ("US" for North America): https://www.maxitpms.com/tpmscms/product2/794.jhtml That spreadsheet will also tell you whether your vehicle automatically learns new TPMS sensors. If it says "A", then you do not need programmable sensors at all. Just buy any compatible sensor that works on the right frequency for your vehicle. You can order the programmable MX sensors online: eBay (shipped from China) Amazon.com (shipped from US) And the programmer: Autel MaxiTPMS PAD (eBay - from China)
Note: All links are affiliate links, meaning that when you use these links, eBay will give me a percentage of anything you spend, at no cost to you. This helps me justify to my wife spending time on these videos. Thank you! :)
And here's the video:
Why I started wet shaving: the money!
Here's a video about why I started wet shaving. It does give you a better shave, but the main reason I made the switch is for the cost. Here I explain how I got started wet shaving, and what you will need to get started. I won't give you a ton of options, since that can get confusing. I'll just tell you what I bought. If you do the same, it's a great starting point.
The short story is: It'll cost you about $50 US to get started, and the only ongoing costs are soap and blades, which are super cheap.
Here are the links to everything I talked about in the video:
How to Shave in 120 Seconds: https://youtu.be/38Sz1QxjQwk
Merkur 34C Razor
Canada: http://amzn.to/2dnZdHl
UK: http://amzn.to/2dC8tqu
US: http://amzn.to/2dzX6QR
Omega brushes
Canada: http://amzn.to/2dmQLdT
UK: http://amzn.to/2dDZx4k
US: http://amzn.to/2dmQqYO
Prorazo green soap
Canada: http://amzn.to/2cOOkdI
UK: http://amzn.to/2dE02v6
US: http://amzn.to/2dmQyaK
Astra Superior blades (100 pack)
Canada: http://amzn.to/2dNJmAb
UK: http://amzn.to/2e27xib
US: http://amzn.to/2dNIviZ
The short story is: It'll cost you about $50 US to get started, and the only ongoing costs are soap and blades, which are super cheap.
Here are the links to everything I talked about in the video:
How to Shave in 120 Seconds: https://youtu.be/38Sz1QxjQwk
Merkur 34C Razor
Canada: http://amzn.to/2dnZdHl
UK: http://amzn.to/2dC8tqu
US: http://amzn.to/2dzX6QR
Omega brushes
Canada: http://amzn.to/2dmQLdT
UK: http://amzn.to/2dDZx4k
US: http://amzn.to/2dmQqYO
Prorazo green soap
Canada: http://amzn.to/2cOOkdI
UK: http://amzn.to/2dE02v6
US: http://amzn.to/2dmQyaK
Astra Superior blades (100 pack)
Canada: http://amzn.to/2dNJmAb
UK: http://amzn.to/2e27xib
US: http://amzn.to/2dNIviZ
Fitibit Charge / Charge HR - Replace Broken Band!
Officially, there is no way to replace a band on a Fitbit Charge or Charge HR. Unofficially, here's how you do it:
You'll have to buy a replacement band for a Garmin Vivofit. Search eBay and you can get one from China for $1. Or if you just can't wait and you're willing to pay more, you can buy them on Amazon:
US: http://amzn.to/2c1qATJ
UK: http://amzn.to/2e27dzS
Canada: http://amzn.to/2c893wu
Optionally, you can also get a "Fitbit Charge Cover" to go over top. Search eBay for one cheap from China, or Amazon:
US: http://amzn.to/2bSE2zd
UK: http://amzn.to/2dAPWOM
Canada: http://amzn.to/2c89Qh7
And here's a video of how to put it all together:
You'll have to buy a replacement band for a Garmin Vivofit. Search eBay and you can get one from China for $1. Or if you just can't wait and you're willing to pay more, you can buy them on Amazon:
US: http://amzn.to/2c1qATJ
UK: http://amzn.to/2e27dzS
Canada: http://amzn.to/2c893wu
Optionally, you can also get a "Fitbit Charge Cover" to go over top. Search eBay for one cheap from China, or Amazon:
US: http://amzn.to/2bSE2zd
UK: http://amzn.to/2dAPWOM
Canada: http://amzn.to/2c89Qh7
And here's a video of how to put it all together:
Make your own floating acoustic guitar mount
As promised, here is how I made a wall mount for my acoustic guitar. It worked out nicely, except that I damaged the paint on our wall a bit while installing it :( I'll need to patch that.
If you prefer to just buy something, Monoprice does carry a cheap horizontal guitar mount, but it's not as pretty: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=602131
If you prefer to just buy something, Monoprice does carry a cheap horizontal guitar mount, but it's not as pretty: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=602131
Make your own floating electric guitar mount
So I thought I'd start making YouTube videos too. For my first one, I'll show you how to mount an electric guitar horizontally on the wall so it looks almost like it's floating there. Since we've been finishing our basement, and my wife decided to accent the room with red, I thought my cherry red Epiphone Dot would look brilliant on the wall.
There are other hangers that can mount your guitar horizontally, if you're willing to pay for it. For example,
Monoprice: http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=602130
Woodies Hangers on Amazon:
US: http://amzn.to/2a3p3zZ
UK: http://amzn.to/2dAPNef
Canada: http://amzn.to/2akGxXC
But I like what I did better, especially since I had all the materials hanging around already, so it was free!
I will be doing a similar project with my acoustic guitar, so keep an eye out for that if you're interested.
There are other hangers that can mount your guitar horizontally, if you're willing to pay for it. For example,
Monoprice: http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=602130
Woodies Hangers on Amazon:
US: http://amzn.to/2a3p3zZ
UK: http://amzn.to/2dAPNef
Canada: http://amzn.to/2akGxXC
But I like what I did better, especially since I had all the materials hanging around already, so it was free!
I will be doing a similar project with my acoustic guitar, so keep an eye out for that if you're interested.
Under-Cabinet LED Lighting
Have you ever looked at under-cabinet lighting in the big box stores and wondered why it's so expensive? It's really not that hard to set something up yourself. I'll explain how I put in under-cabinet lights at minimal cost. Some of the materials I bought on eBay from China, which takes at least a month to come in the mail, so some patience is required.
I used LED strip lights. You can buy them in rolls on eBay. You will need to measure the length of all the cabinets to figure out how much you need. I ended up putting 2 rows of LEDs under each cabinet. I bought a 5 meter roll, and still had a bit left over. But our kitchen is fairly small. If you buy larger LEDs, you may decide that only one strip per cabinet is ok. The size of the LEDs are given by a four-digit number. For example, I bought 3528 LEDs. That means each LED is 3.2mm x 2.8mm. You can also buy 5050 LEDs, which are 5.0mm x 5.0mm, which should give more light, if you want it.
Once you decide how much and what size you want, search eBay. For example, "5m 5050 LED strip". You can buy a 5 meter strip for under $10US. Many sellers have several options, like the color. So make sure you're not buying red LEDs if you want white. You can also find soft white or cool white, depending on your preference. You can buy waterproof strips, which have a silicone covering over the whole strip, but it costs a little more, makes the wiring a little trickier, and it's unnecessary in this application. But it'll still work, if that's what you prefer.
LED strips are designed so that they can be cut every 3 LEDs. There are special LED connectors that make it easier to wire the strips you cut off. Search for "2 pin led connectors". These will clip on to the LED strip and have short wires that you'll connect to power. Make sure you buy enough so you have one for every strip you cut off. You can buy a pack of 10 for just a few dollars. If you want to make any 90-degree turns in your LED strips, you can also buy special connectors to do that too.
These LED strips run on 12V, so you'll need a properly-sized power supply. You have to be aware of how much current will be required to power all your LEDs. The current depends on the size of the LEDs and the number of LEDs per meter. The short story is that 5 meters of 3258 LEDs at 60 LEDs/m would require about 2.2A. If you buy 5050 LEDs are 60 LEDs/m, that will draw about 6.6A. Be generous with your calculation. Using an oversized power supply won't actually use more power. It'll just make more power available, which is a good thing. I'm using a 5A power supply for the about 4.5m of 3258 LED strip that I used, which I also bought on eBay for under $10US.
You might even have a power supply laying around your house that you can use! If you have an old, unused laptop power supply, check if it's 12V and puts out enough current. If you're not even going to use a full 5 meters, you might even be able to use a small "wall wart" type power supply. But those small ones don't usually put out any more than 2A.
You will also need some wire to run to the bottom of your cabinets. I used some fairly thick speaker wire, which was totally overkill and doesn't look that nice under the cabinets (although you can't see it when you're standing up). Just about any thin wire will do, but you might think about matching the colour of the bottom of your cabinets. If you are going to put your power supply on top of your cabinets, like I did, you will need enough to run to the bottom of each cabinet.
It's also handy to have some heat shrink tubing to cover the connections between the LED connectors and your wire. Again, you can match the colour of the bottom of your cabinets, although anything other than black might be harder to find. This stuff is pretty cheap, even if you buy it locally at an electronics store.
You will need to decide where you will plug in your power supply. Our house already had a light over the sink, with a switch under the cabinets. The wire from the switch came out of the wall above the cabinets, so I decided to hook into that to feed my LEDs, so the under-cabinet lights come on with the light over the sink. I cut the wire feeding the light where it came out of the wall and installed a receptacle there.
It is better to run the power in parallel, that is, split the power and run it to each cabinet. So if you have 4 cabinets, run 4 wires from your power supply to each cabinet. I used this little device you see in the picture to split the power called a "wire terminal block". You can find them on eBay as well as some local hardware stores. I cut the connector off the end of the wire coming out of the power supply so I could connect it to the block.
Make sure you get the polarity right: connect the positive wire from the power supply to the positive wire of your wire. The wires will usually have a different colour wire (sometimes red for positive, black for negative). Sometimes both wires are the same colour, but the positive but have a line (sometime dotted, sometimes solid) running along it. Some power supplies have no difference in the wires at all, which means you will need to use a multimeter to figure it out. LEDs just won't work if you get the polarity backwards. It won't damage them, they just won't light up.
You can feed the power in series, that is, run wire from the power supply to the first cabinet, then connect the end of that LED strip to the next, and so on. But you may find that the LEDs at the end of that series will be dimmer than the first ones.
Run the wire from the power supply down each cabinet. I drilled small holes in the back corner of the cabinets and ran the wire inside the cabinets. I pulled the shelves out a tiny bit to allow room for the wire behind them.
Cut your LED strips to size for each cabinet. Remember that they can only be cut in specific places, which are marked on the strip.
Attach one connector to each strip. Make sure you get the polarity right: the positive wire (usually red) is connected to the + mark on the strip. And make sure the metal tabs in the connector are on top of the metal on the LED strip.
Attach the connectors to the wire coming from the power supply. If you're using heat shrink tubing, cut a piece of that and slide it on first, before you connect the wires. I recommend you solder these connections, but twisting them together would work too; the heat shrink tubing will keep it together. Use a hair dryer to shrink the tubing. The tubing does a few things: make it pretty, adds some strength to the joint, and keeps the positive and negative from touching each other (which would shut your lights off).
Test it! Apply power to your power supply and (hopefully) watch it light up! If any of the strips don't light up, check your connections to make sure nothing is lose, and that the polarity is correct. If your LED strips did not have plus and minus signs, you may have to flip the whole strip around to correct the polarity.
Now that you're sure everything is working, peel the back off the LED strips and stick them to the bottom of your cabinets. I put them close to the front, so they're hidden by the lip at the front of the cabinets.
The other wires will need to be stuck to the cabinet too, so they don't hang down. You can use some silicone, some crazy glue, or double-sided tape. Whatever you use, you'll likely have to apply pressure to it for a few minutes at least to make sure it stays in place. I used a piece of wood wedged between the wire and my counter top.
Once everything is dry, enjoy! My total cost was less than $20US.
I used LED strip lights. You can buy them in rolls on eBay. You will need to measure the length of all the cabinets to figure out how much you need. I ended up putting 2 rows of LEDs under each cabinet. I bought a 5 meter roll, and still had a bit left over. But our kitchen is fairly small. If you buy larger LEDs, you may decide that only one strip per cabinet is ok. The size of the LEDs are given by a four-digit number. For example, I bought 3528 LEDs. That means each LED is 3.2mm x 2.8mm. You can also buy 5050 LEDs, which are 5.0mm x 5.0mm, which should give more light, if you want it.
Once you decide how much and what size you want, search eBay. For example, "5m 5050 LED strip". You can buy a 5 meter strip for under $10US. Many sellers have several options, like the color. So make sure you're not buying red LEDs if you want white. You can also find soft white or cool white, depending on your preference. You can buy waterproof strips, which have a silicone covering over the whole strip, but it costs a little more, makes the wiring a little trickier, and it's unnecessary in this application. But it'll still work, if that's what you prefer.
 |
| Connector |
 |
| Power supply |
You might even have a power supply laying around your house that you can use! If you have an old, unused laptop power supply, check if it's 12V and puts out enough current. If you're not even going to use a full 5 meters, you might even be able to use a small "wall wart" type power supply. But those small ones don't usually put out any more than 2A.
You will also need some wire to run to the bottom of your cabinets. I used some fairly thick speaker wire, which was totally overkill and doesn't look that nice under the cabinets (although you can't see it when you're standing up). Just about any thin wire will do, but you might think about matching the colour of the bottom of your cabinets. If you are going to put your power supply on top of your cabinets, like I did, you will need enough to run to the bottom of each cabinet.
It's also handy to have some heat shrink tubing to cover the connections between the LED connectors and your wire. Again, you can match the colour of the bottom of your cabinets, although anything other than black might be harder to find. This stuff is pretty cheap, even if you buy it locally at an electronics store.
You will need to decide where you will plug in your power supply. Our house already had a light over the sink, with a switch under the cabinets. The wire from the switch came out of the wall above the cabinets, so I decided to hook into that to feed my LEDs, so the under-cabinet lights come on with the light over the sink. I cut the wire feeding the light where it came out of the wall and installed a receptacle there.
 |
| Wire terminal block |
Make sure you get the polarity right: connect the positive wire from the power supply to the positive wire of your wire. The wires will usually have a different colour wire (sometimes red for positive, black for negative). Sometimes both wires are the same colour, but the positive but have a line (sometime dotted, sometimes solid) running along it. Some power supplies have no difference in the wires at all, which means you will need to use a multimeter to figure it out. LEDs just won't work if you get the polarity backwards. It won't damage them, they just won't light up.
You can feed the power in series, that is, run wire from the power supply to the first cabinet, then connect the end of that LED strip to the next, and so on. But you may find that the LEDs at the end of that series will be dimmer than the first ones.
Run the wire from the power supply down each cabinet. I drilled small holes in the back corner of the cabinets and ran the wire inside the cabinets. I pulled the shelves out a tiny bit to allow room for the wire behind them.
Cut your LED strips to size for each cabinet. Remember that they can only be cut in specific places, which are marked on the strip.Attach one connector to each strip. Make sure you get the polarity right: the positive wire (usually red) is connected to the + mark on the strip. And make sure the metal tabs in the connector are on top of the metal on the LED strip.
Attach the connectors to the wire coming from the power supply. If you're using heat shrink tubing, cut a piece of that and slide it on first, before you connect the wires. I recommend you solder these connections, but twisting them together would work too; the heat shrink tubing will keep it together. Use a hair dryer to shrink the tubing. The tubing does a few things: make it pretty, adds some strength to the joint, and keeps the positive and negative from touching each other (which would shut your lights off).
Test it! Apply power to your power supply and (hopefully) watch it light up! If any of the strips don't light up, check your connections to make sure nothing is lose, and that the polarity is correct. If your LED strips did not have plus and minus signs, you may have to flip the whole strip around to correct the polarity.
Now that you're sure everything is working, peel the back off the LED strips and stick them to the bottom of your cabinets. I put them close to the front, so they're hidden by the lip at the front of the cabinets.
The other wires will need to be stuck to the cabinet too, so they don't hang down. You can use some silicone, some crazy glue, or double-sided tape. Whatever you use, you'll likely have to apply pressure to it for a few minutes at least to make sure it stays in place. I used a piece of wood wedged between the wire and my counter top.
Once everything is dry, enjoy! My total cost was less than $20US.
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